Friday, February 28, 2014

Trouble in Paradise: The Coral Reefs of Raja Ampat



Award-winning photojournalist James Morgan recently documented the destructive fishing methods of the Bajau Laut – driven by fish stock depletion, the Bajau sea nomads learnt to devise bombs by filling up bottles with ground matchstick heads, sand and fertilizer.  Not only do these explosives kill all fish within radius of the explosion, they also detonate the coral reefs below.  Now bombs have fallen upon one of the richest marine sites in the world - Raja Ampat – an archipelago of 610 islands surrounded by coral reefs, in far Eastern Indonesia.
 The idyllic islands of Wayag in Raja Ampat 

It’s hard to imagine.  For hundreds of years the locals of Raja Ampat have implemented a management system that protected their natural resources, known as sasi – areas were temporarily closed to all fishing activity for periods of 6 months up to 5 years, to protect the area from exploitation.  Some communities held sasi over marine wildlife such as the sea cucumber and lobster, to give the species time to re-populate.  Benefiting of all members of the community, the system ensured that there was always a fish on the plate for tomorrow and for their children’s tomorrow.  Yet the dynamics of Raja Ampat have rapidly changed over the last 10 to 20 years with a government-directed transmigration program in progress and non-sustainable, illegal fishing techniques have been introduced.

The coral reefs outside of the protective gaze of resorts and conservation posts are likely to be the most vulnerable.  In the quiet village of Meos Mangara in far Western Raja Ampat, the locals spoke about the empty island of Jefmoi where white sands glistened beneath a parade of overhanging coconut trees.  However the island’s reef, (located just outside of a no-take fishing zone) had been destroyed by bombs.  White fragments of soft coral were piled across the ocean floor – hard corals were split and the landowner’s dream of opening a home-stay had quite literally been shattered.
 
A boy from Meos Mangara scoops up a piece of shattered coral
The locals of Meos Mangara (meaning Ant Island in the local dialect) explained that bombers often targeted small islands with no inhabitants, in order to evade their vigilant watch.  It is believed that fishermen from Sorong and Buton in Sulawesi have used home-made bombs to fish since the 1990s – only this year no explosions were heard by the villagers.  Yet although no-take zones and government and community surveillance teams have been established, the villagers in Meos Mangara complained that many patrol posts were left unguarded.  As corals perish, the fishing stocks deplete and the villagers experienced difficulties finding food on an island that used to yield plenty.

In Waisai, the capital of Raja Ampat, there was little evidence of bombed fish entering the market.  Some of the locals at the harbour explained that bombed fish were usually sold in Sorong and the mainland where the damaged fish could be traded unnoticed, in a large-scale market.  When fish have been bombed, the bones shatter, detach and the fish become floppy.    Another clue to look for in the market, they explained, was a large amount of fusiliers (lalosi) and mackerel (lema / kembung).  These fish are targeted because they school in large numbers, often near coral. 

Noticing the depletion of lema stocks – a new campaign by the government of Raja Ampat, Conservation International (CI) and RARE, has developed and CI staff member Bertha Matatar explained that “Fishermen are encouraged to refrain from catching the lema during the spawning period of September to November”
Sustainable fishing methods are often used by the locals and the inhabitants of Salawati (one of the four main islands of Raja Ampat) used underwater fishing cages called keramba.  Erected close to the beach with a tunnel at the front, fish were able to swim into the cage, but not back out.  When the locals required fish, they simply scooped out the live catch with a net and all infants were thrown back into the sea in order to mature.  Villagers also held sasi over the lobster, since according to folklore, the lobster once guided lost fishermen back to the shore – no-one is allowed to eat the lobster and if it is accidently caught in the net it must be thrown overboard.


Dinner in Salawati: the catch from the keramba nets is tossed into the boat

Yet Salawati’s hidden corals were also victim to illegal fishing practices and officers at a nearby Conservation International post explained that the reef by the post had been bombed in the past and was beginning to recover after years of surveillance. 

According to research by renowned marine scientist Gerald Allen, the locals are now applying non-sustainable fishing methods such as cyanide which is supplied to them by non-locals along with a squirt-bottle.  After CI scientists investigated the conditions of 45 coral reefs over 10 years ago they discovered that 13.3% showed evidence of destructive fishing practices.  Patrols and surveillance posts are crucial and CI has established many stations across Raja Ampat.  Even the idyllic region of Wayag was bombed in the past and only now, (under the protection of CI) has the area flourished with black tip reef sharks.  However, CI rangers explained that illegal boats from the Philippines were caught entering Wayag’s waters - these hunting boats were often armed and dangerous and packed with shark fins to trade illegally in Asia.
Due to global fishing pressures, nets are now being flung further East, into one of Indonesia’s last remaining paradises - Raja Ampat.  For hundreds of years the respectful islanders have lived in harmony with the marine world, yet in just the past 20 years this relationship has faced many strains.   A firm understanding of the impacts of bombing, coral destruction and fish stock depletion needs to be understood by every fisherman, before the paradise is lost.

Further Information

Conservation International: http://www.conservation.org/

McKenna, S.A., G.R. Allen, and S. Suryadi (eds.). (2002) ‘A Marine Rapid Assessment of the Raja Ampat Islands, Papua Province, Indonesia.’ RAP Bulletin of Biological Assessment 22. Conservation International

James Morgan’s documentary: http://www.jamesmorgan.co.uk/film/people-of-the-coral-triangle/